We went to Mae Hia, south-west of Chiang Mai, to attend an ancient celebration that, even today, despite the modernity, is handed down from generation to generation.
The story tells of two giants Pu Sae and Ya Sae who used to eat the men of the villages located at the foot of the mountain Doi Kham. For a long time no peace was found, until, it is said, that Buddha spoke to them and agreed a great offer to be made in exchange of human lives.
The couple of giants agreed, but every year under the full moon of the seventh lunar month a buffalo must be donated to them, the biggest, black.
So from now on the men make their offer, following a precise ritual in which a shaman possessed by the spirits of Pu Sae and Ya Sae eats raw meat and drinks the blood of the animal killed the night before.
The monks pray. Nine of them sing the opening mantras, while an image of the Buddha with his two disciples Sariputra and Moggallana is raised on a large tree. The drums are incessant and the crowd that attends is gathered in prayer.
A sage invokes the spirits of the two giants, reminding them of the deal:
“Oh buffalo, you have been sacrificed for us, for our good, as an offering not to be eaten. Every year the tradition says that we must make a sacrifice, this year it’s you. For Mae Hia and for Chiang Mai all. This year, this month, today, now, they come to take you as an offer. Every year, in this month, today, we are hereā¦”.
In deep trance the shaman is walked to the sacred place, on the stone where the black buffalo lies. He will eat the meat, the organs and drink the blood.
Everyone is dressed up in traditional Lanna clothes. The old peasants remain on the sidelines, they believe in it and want to prevent catastrophes. In Thai society, the spirits, called Phi, are very respected and, at the same time, very feared.
Also this year the promised offer has been made, with the hope that the giants Pu Sae and Ya Sae will keep their word.
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